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Sunday
Date: 10. August 2025
To Donauquelle and Martinskapelle, Germany
Today it was up at 5 and off at 6. It's difficult to imagine the afternoon heat and cycling in it at this time but it's worth making the effort and get out.
So, after doing 350 miles, I will finally get to the start of my actual river trip. It was 27 miles and 1,500 feet of climbing to the headwaters. It was a pleasant cycle, although a bit steep at the end.
When I got to the top, I noticed I was the only one on a normal bike, apart from one or two lycra clad guys. You know the type, wirery and looking slightly deranged. Everyone else was on e-bikes, and good for them. In the past, only people like me and the guys I mentioned earlier, would have enjoyed something like this, and everyone else had to go by car.
Now, you see all shapes and sizes and it's amazing that the bikes get them up the hill, but they do.
A change of cycling culture and I am getting used to it.
On the way down I visited the second place that claims to be the source of the Danube, in Donaueschingen. It looks like a Victorian monument, built for the tourists. The one up in the hills feels more authentic. Also, just 200 feet away you can see where the water will flow into the North Sea.
What made my day, was seeing a red squirrel just as the sun was rising! When you look at the color of its pelt, you can't believe it exists.
Over the last week I had my distances and campsites all planned out, but from now I won't have that pressure, just the 27. September and Bucharest.
Monday
Date: 11. August 2025
From Donaueschingen to Eichemau, Germany
Today was a cycle through some amazing landscapes. Have a look at the photo pages.
First off, the disappearing Danube. After just 20 miles, at low water like now, the water goes underground and after 10 or so miles reappears in a town called Aach and flows from there into the Bodensee and the Rhine. A strange setup, almost as if there are two different rivers.
Next came the Donautal gorge which cuts through the Schwabische Alb limestone hills. It's narrow, has no road , with a few houses down below and castles towering aboth. You would want to stop every few minutes to take a picture but that can be risky as other cyclists might crash into you. You are also aware that you are actually following a path the river has carved through the mountains . Rather overwhelming but have a look at the photos
Once the Danube leaves the gorge, the land becomes flatter. For the last 20 miles it was through flat country, on crushed limestone track reflecting the sun (and no trying sight). Anyway, this couldn't detract from what I had seen earlier.
The campsite is attached to a farm and is basic but clean. What was great was talking to a number of cyclists. Two, Pia and Fabian had done Wienna to the Black Sea so badggered them for any tips about their trip. Dogs, wild, garden or sheep, were on of challenges: carry a 3 foot stick on your bike.
Another suggested that rather than cycle around the Weltenburger End, get a boat through it. I know it's cheating so I think about it.
Tomorrow it's only 45 miles to Ulm which will give me enough time in the afternoon to look around the ciy. Incidentally, a couple from Honkong are doing the same, so we might meet up again.
Tuesday
Date: 12. August 2025
From Eichemau to Dillingen, Germany
Today I planned to only go as far as Ulm doing 50 miles, but I was there by lunchtime. There wasn't anything particular in the town that interested me, so I pushed on another 30 miles which got me to Dillingen. Like many of these sites, you just walk in and about 80% are cycle tourists. What is amazing is that the site is right on the Danube.
The temperature was around 30°. In the shade and particularly in the forests it made for rather pleased cycle.
However, on the road you got hit twice over: direct sun light and the reflection off ground. Cycling you at least got some ventilation but stop, and the temperature seems to shoot immediately up to 40°.
I haven't counted how many times I crossed the Danube so far, but it's great seeing the river so regularly, because later on, particularly in Bulgaria, there will be times where I don't see the Danube for days. So, I am making the best of it.
Wednesday
Date: 13. August 2025
From Dillingen to Vohburg, Germany
Today was another day of shadowing the Danube. Talking of shad, there was some, but a lot of the time it was the open sky about and tarmac or crushed limestone below = heat.
But, the photos give you a glimpse that it's worth every minute of it. Like having breakfast this morning with the Danube gently flowing past.
So, tonight it's a free campsite, with three portaloos and one toilet/shower a little distance away. The campsite is actually located inside the dykes, so any heavy rain, and we will have to run from the flood waters.
Not exactly Hairy standard but it seems to attract a range of campers: huge mobile homes, families with kids, couples singles, cyclists and non-cyclists alike.
What people have in common is that they like the fact that there is no WiFi, no electricity and of course no cost. So, no teenagers, no late night music and partying, and everything will have settled down by 9pm. True enough, the church bells just rang in the 9th hour and all's quiet.
My kind of place.
Thursday
Date: 14. August 2025
From Vohburg to Herrnsaal, Germany
You can always tell the standard of the clientele in a campsite by the way the toilets look the morning after. In Donaueschingen they looked like an absolute pigsty: toilet roll and hand towels on the floor everywhere.
At the free campsite, although basic, the place was spotless in the morning. Responsible citizens.
Today was a shorter trip and I was rather glad because it was 34° in the shade. Cycling is just about ok, but stopping and you boil. At the moment every tree along the way has got cyclists sheltering under them, waiting out the worst of the midday heat.
Today I also took a shortcut by boat through the Weltenburg Schlucht. Beautiful scenery but also very welcome because I could avoid some steep climbs. It feels a bit like cheating, but I think I am alright with that. According to my itinerary, I think I am about half a day behind my schedule, but I am not really worried.
At 7 in the evening it's still 27° and I am still sweating. So, for the next two days, it's up at 5 to start cycling at 6. After that, I think the temperature is going down a bit.
Friday
Date: 15. August 2025
From Herrnsaal to Straubing, Germany
Today, I think I had a bit of a Bilbo Baggins moment: I am missing my two hour breakfasts, knowing where I will sleep tonight, knowing what is round the next corner, etc. However, the road goes on and on ... and I got over it.
Another thing I learnt today was where to find drinking water in small villages: the grave yard. I was sitting in front of a church when I saw this cyclist walking around with a full bottle of clear, cool water. I asked him where he got it, and he showed me me the grave yard. Of course, that makes sense and I will remember it in the future. Water, more than anything else is essential.
Another shortish day, but when I got to Straubing, I immediately noticed about 500,000 men in lederhosen and about 500,000 women in dirndls. The Gäubodenvolksfest is the second biggest folk fest in Bavarian, after the October fest in Munich, with about 1.5m guests expected.
The organisation looked absolutely massive with people everywhere and massive fairground rides. I didn't particularly want to join so I went in search of a campsite.
Cycling through the croud, I couldn't understand a word people were saying, but luckily the woman I spoke to switched easily between a strong Bavarian accent when speaking to her partner to High German when speaking to me.
However, the fest meant that everywhere was full and the all sites nearby would be as well. So, it's my first wild camp tonight, and surely not the last.
About wild camping, hygiene can be a bit of a problem. I remember the hikers during the Transamerican trip: you could smell them a mile away. However, no such problem when you have the Danube close by. Just don't drop the soap, the water is pretty fast flowing so you have to chase after it.
Saturday
Date: 16. August 2025
From Strauing to Degendorf, Germany
To get on top of things, it was just 22 miles and another day at the same campsite. This should help with catching up with things.
On the way here I was caught in some thunder and lightning: there was a reflection off my handlebar bag, and immediately the thunder. I think my heart was hammering as I had no idea what hit me. There was no real rain, just a bit of spitting, so got off lightly.
Anyway, along way there were a few diversions, due to flood prevention work. There were some pictures of the floods of 2024 and it looks devastating. At moment the Danube looks nice and contained but due to the huge catchment area, can raise to unmanageable highs. They say that they are preparing for a 1 in 100 year event but who knows, with climate change it could happen every other year and even get worse. Scary though when you live in a floodplain like that.
I am still adjusting to the heat humidity, and see what I need to keep going. However, after 3 liters of water, a packet of pringles, 3 tablets each of magnesium and calcium and a salty dinner seems to definitely improve the outlook.
I also talked to Martin, originally from St Gallen, but now living in Bern. After all the high German, it was a relief to talk Bern Deutsch. Either English or Bern Deutsch are the languages I feel comfortable with. Everything else is an effort.
Initially the conversation didn't really flow, because he hadn't noticed the wasp on his beer bottle and it stung his lip. He was just sitting there, everyone feeling sorry for him. Luckily only the lip and he wasn't allergic to the wasp poison. It didn't look pretty and reminded me of the co-worker we had in Ochil Tower some years ago, who, just before her boyfriend was to visit, got stung as well.
The lesson from all this is not looking before you leap, but look before you eat.