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Sunday
Date: 31. August 2025
From Vojlovica to Golubac, Serbia
Getting to Golubac today has been straight forward, helped by two things: the temperature never went above 24° and a steady tailwind. It makes such a difference when you don't constantly have to be on the lookout for shade.
On the way I had to catch the ferry to Ram. I had previously checked the times on the internet but when I got there I couldn't find a ramp or jetty. I asked around and was finally directed to a track which ended in a gravel beach. Other people also arrived so I knew I was in the right place but I couldn't possibly imagine how cars could be unloaded. Anyway, the ferry arrived, pushed the ramp up on the beach and a couple of guys jumped off and shoveled gravel to allow cars to get off. The ferry itself was old and rickety and the whole setup had almost a third world feel about. Anyway, I got accross savely and made my way to Golubac.
Golubac is at the very start of the Iron Gates gorges, so tomorrow will be an exciting day. The Carpathian and Balkan mountain ranges were the last big obstacle the Danube faced before it could make it's way to the Black Sea. It cut a deep gorge which is now the most picturesque part of the second stage of my trip. I am really looking forward to that.
Tonight will also be my last stay in Serbia and tomorrow I will cross over into Romania. There I will stay for a couple of nights in Drobeta-Turnu Severin to catch me breath and chill out.
Monday
Date: 1. September 2025
From Golubac, Serbia to Drobeta-Turnu Severin, Romania
Today was the usual 6 am start with an overcast, lowering sky. Very fitting to the setting. In fact, I think I was chasing the rainclouds but thankfully, never caught up. Whilst the previous gorges were beautiful and interesting, the Iron Gates gorges seems more dramatic and you are really aware of the power of the water having carved it's way through the mountains.
Along the route there were two fairly long climbs which I managed in a oner. Rather satisfying to realise that my fitness has gone up with 4 weeks of training.
The road was in very good condition and then there were the 18 tunnels. Some were short and straight and any car or lorry coming up from behind would see you. Others were up to 350m long, on a bend, and pitch black. The longest ones had buttens you could press which was suppose to warn drivers that a cyclist was in the tunnel. However, they did not work, so you just had to put your lights on and take a chance.
Traffic wise, the most interesting part was the 10 miles from the boarder into Drobeta-Turnu Severin. The only way is one very busy two lane road with lots of traffic in both directions. For some of the way there was a two-foot hard shoulder which didn't make much of a difference. You just had to concentrate on keeping straight and ignore the lorries whizzing past you, trying to suck you into their slipstream.
I am still getting used to seeing dogs aying about on the pavement or in parks. In fact, one was roaming about at the Croatian customs post. Most are placid and friendly, but others behave more aggressively. On that busy main road, one kamikaze one spotted me from the other side of the road and paying no heed to his own safety, dashed straight across the traffic. There was a lot of tooting horns and only by the grace of God did he survive. What is it with cyclists and dogs? Anyway, I have got my stick, ready to come out when needed, although probably difficult to use on a busy road.
On the subject of classic male-female rolls, on the highest point, with a sheer drop down to the river, I had a well-deserved rest. Then a car stopped nearby, with a man and a woman getting out. The woman immediately got her phone out, jumped across the wall and starting to take selfies. The man at the same time was berating her for being dangerous and irresponsible. Rather unusual, as I my experience it's normally the other way round.
Anyway, I got to my apartment which is in an old soviet style block. The stairwell is dark and grotty, but the apartment is clean and well set up but definitely dated from about 20 years ago. Perfect for me needs.
Tuesday
Date: 2. September 2025
In Drobeta-Turnu Severin, Romania
When I arrive at the apartment block yesterday I called the owner to ask how to get in. He didn't speak a word of English, just kept saying "WhatsApp". Fin lly it clicked and I hung up and sent him a message in English. He replied in Romanian, and we both used Google to translate it. It works remarkably well, although I assume the in-between-the-lines bits get lost.
A sleep-in, a leisurely breakfast and a walk around town, was what today was all about. Although sleep-in ment 8 and out of the flat by 10 as nobody wants to be out in the afternoon due to the heat.
The town had a number of interesting features. In my street, although now covered over, there is still a well where people used to get their water. It must have still been used after the apartments were built. There are a number of beautiful parks and fountains but the most interesting bit was down by castle, right next to the Danube. It was a series of about 30 large picture, showing the history of the area going right back to Roman time. One, for example was the bridge the Romans built across the Danube, a real feat of engineering, and then leading right up to modern times. Although it was all in Romanian, Google translate came in very handy.
Tomorrow is the start of the last stretch of my trip. There will be very few towns until I get to Galati, just a lot of small villages. So, it will be head down for the next 550 miles, but staying in apartments will help speed up the morning and evening routine. And of course, they all have beds and air-conditioning.
Wednesday
Date: 3. September 2025
From Drobeta-Turnu Severin to Calafat, Romania
By midday, I had done most of the 80 miles, and just as well, the temperature was going to go up to 37° later today. The last 20 miles was on the busiest road I have been on to date. It must be one of the main roads for lorries heading to Bulgaria. You would often have a convoy of maybe 6 large lorries shooting past you, sometimes rather close, but not too close. On a positive note, if there is headwind, their slipstream is rather helpful in pulling you along.
So far I haven't experienced any annoyed or stressed drivers. I suppose they are used to dealing with other, much slower road users: horse and carts, tractors doing 10 mph, and of course cyclists and not just me.
Since leaving Drobeta-Turnu Severin, I seem to have become more of a curiosity, with probably not many touring cyclist coming through. So I got lots of stares and waves, and people generally being friendly. Although I don't understand a word of Romania, this I understand perfectly well and it does make the trip more enjoyable.
As I got out of Drobeta-Turnu Severin, I had an encounter with a pack of dogs. Out came the stick and they all stayed well outside its range. Initially it was a bit annoying, particularly for the first hour when it was still dark. You couldn't see them lurking in the bushes. Then I realised that for the rest of my trip, when entering and leaving towns and villages, there will always be packs, some just watching, others barking and chasing. So, better just get used to it and enjoyed it like any of the other challenges.
There are other things that are slightly different to what I am used to: smoking and non-smoking rooms are not really respected. Also, using mobile phones while driving seems rather common. In fact, I saw a driver not just using one, but two as he drove through one of the villages.
Thursday
Date: 4. September 2025
From Calafat to Corabia, Romania
Today was a bit of a long day and the further you got away from the big towns, the more rural and rustic (authentic?) the villages became. You could see many more horses and carts and most people seem to be doing their shopping by bike. I don't know what the employment situation is like, but already at 8 in the morning you could see people of working age sitting outside shops and pubs. Whilst these were great audiences for me, waving and calling out, there seemed to be limited economic activity.
Although the villages have mains water now, there are still wells every 200 yards or so. Some dilapidated, others closed off but some still in use. These must have supplied the villagers with water for hundreds of years.
About dogs, I actually only passed through one place that had an active set of dogs, and that was early in the morning. First, there was the welcome pack at the start of the village, barking and snapping and chasing. Then, the dogs in the village that were previously quiet, started to pick up the message: a cyclist, goody. By the time you get into the village proper, the residents on the street or behind fences would know you are coming, looking at you, growling or barking. And, once you are through, the goodbye pack at the end of the village would, with some satisfaction make sure you actually leave. Once you are done, you can hear the place settle down again. What is confidence inspiring is that they are not feral dog. They all look healthy and well fed and they also seem to respond to commands.
Just before dawn it's the turn of the cockerels. Most houses seem to have at least one. What was really annoying this morning was one of them was croaky. You felt like saying to him, clear that throat, please, but he just kept croaking.
Today I felt even more alien. No other cycle tourist in sight and I don't know when the last one passed through. Also no road bikes or a shred of lycra in sight. I think most cyclists must be taking the route through Bulgaria. They don't know what they are missing.
There is also something else I just remember. I was cycling on the dyke going to the ferry over to Ram, when head of me I saw an old sheppard with his sheep crossing my path. It looked absolutely idyllic and I slowed down and let them pass. He didn't have dogs but there was a donkey amongst the sheep. Once he had crossed, I cycled on and then I heard the weirdest sound: he was playing loud music on his mobile phone, something local, I think. Anyway, that spoiled the image just a bit.
When I arrived in Corabia, I went to the location of my hotel and all I found was a delapidete place which definitely had seen better days. This is very much in keeping with the skeleton of the steelwork you can see on the way into town. So, off I went asking around and finally found the place a bit further up the road: A Soviet stile hotel with marble on the floor, sweeping staircases and large rooms. The poshest place I have stayed in so far, all for £20.
Friday
Date: 5. September 2025
From Corabia to Giurgiu, Romania
Last night I put my bike in the ballroom and locked it as well. So, off I went to sleep (not very well, as there was no aircon). I got up at the usual time of 4 am and went down to start with my packing. Disaster!!! No bike!!!!!!! Somebody had nicked it. What didn't help was that the previous night I had read about the massive amount of theft that went on when the local steel works were closing down and a lot of people in town got very rich.
So, what now? Go back to bed and wait for the police station to open? See if I can get a replacement (Unlikely in this town.)? Make a sweep of the whole place to see if someone had moved it?
Out came the torch and I checked in every nock and cranny. It's a rambling place and I finally found it! What a relief. The owner must have been aware that the bike could be seen through the window, tempting people , and so moved it out of the way. You can imagine I was a happy bunny. If anything else would have gotten lost or stolen, I could have managed, but not the bike. It's to specialised and I clearly couldn't have gone on without it.
The cycle was fairly straightforward, although at 93 miles it was the longest of my trip to date. And, I met another touring cyclist, coming from the opposite direction, Donna from Germany. Touring cyclist or tourist are probably not the right term for her, more cycling nomad. She has been travelling all over Europe, including Ireland and Scotland and just keeps going. She was on her way to Greece just now. The only reason she took the Romania route was that she had heard that a walker in Bulgaria was attacked and killed by a bear. Like me, she probably also hadn't had a grown-up conversation for weeks, so we talked for about half an hour at side of a busy main road. Guess what we talked about: cycling tips and adventures. Probably rather boring for everybody else, but not for us.
When I got to the apartment, it was the usual setup: grotty on the outside, the stairwell a disgrace but the apartment tastefully done up. The only problem is that there is no cooker, just a microwave. I will have to see what microwave meal I can get with enough calories.
Saturday
Date: 6. September 2025
From Giurgiu to Dorobantu, Romania
I will have to slow down a bit. Just 250 miles to Tulcea, and then another 270 miles to Constanta and Bucharest and I still have 20 days left of my trip.
So, even taking it slow, I will be in Bucharest on 18 September and my flight back to Edinburgh is on 27th. This should leave plenty of time to sort out any last minute problems.
I am now spending two days in Dorobantu, in 'hut' overlooking the lake. Not exactly slumming it.
On my cycle here, what did I see? Three road cyclists! I could hardly believe what I was seeing. Up to Budapest, the roads and cycling paths were absolutely teeming with them and since then, I have seen exactly three of them.
There were a few climbs today and on a 8% one, I was about half way up and could see a lorry coming up behind me. I heard it go down through the gears and thought it was slowing down so as not to overtake me just before the brow of the hill. But then I realised it was also struggling, and when it finally caught up , I could have probably sped up and left it behind. Anyway, at the top it overtook me, and I could see it carried a full load of sand.
Cycling through the villages you are aware that it's still very much a landbased community. Tractors would have tipped a trailer load of sweetcorn on plastic sheets in front of houses and the owners would shovel it into buckets to bring in. Wood, sometimes whole trees would be lying before many houses, ready to be cut and split for winter fuel.
A couple of things I just remember. Yesterday I was passing through the bird sanctuary a Viisoara and saw another shepherd with his sheep, no YouTube playing and he was leaning on his staff in a very classic shepherd fashion. I waved to him and it literally took him 10 seconds to come back from wherever he was, and wave back. He must have been meditating, or something.
I also passed a bus stop with four men waiting, I presume going to work. Then I noticed each had a hoe and they were clearly talking the bus to their out-of-town field and spend the day hoeing.
Fridays and Saturdays seem to be the days for weddings here. Before I even got properly into a place called Ulmeni, I could hear what I presume traditional Romanian music bleating out of speakers. When I got to the other end, I could see a band playing and a wedding in full swing. In the following village again , they were just putting up gazebos and decorations on the pavement for another one. And here, as I went out shopping, I could hear one going on. It seems weddings here are happening at the home of people.
And lastly, I have seen more road cyclists than dog walkers. The dogs here are either in the yard or they take themselves for a walk. Very independent.