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Sunday
Date: 14. September 2025
From Sulina to Tulcea, Romania by ferry
Last night I was sitting at the waterfront, eating my dinner, when Emil joined me. He spoke passable English and was in his late 50s but seemed older. We had a wide ranging conversation from falling birthrates, immigration, low crime rates, worries about the war close by, secondly education, to life in general in in Sulina. From what I gather, I don't think Emil has travelled much outside the Delta and seems to feel at home here. In the Summer months the town is fairly lively with tourists but, according to him, Winter time is very quiet.
Then we came to talk about the economic situation, delapidated factory buildings, young people leaving and ruins next to 4-star hotels. It turned out that the first 21 years of his life he lived under communist rule, with Nicolae Ceaușescu as the head of state. The way he remembers it was that it was a beautiful time (his words), with Sulina lively and thriving and young people had prospects and stayed, and that the current government has no idea of what they are doing. Looking at the current state of the town, I could not help but sympathise with him. However, we didn't discuss if the political system he experienced in his youth could possibly have lasted for another 36 years. Nonetheless, it didn't stop him hankering back to the good old times. Well, this seems to happen the world over, not only in former communist countries.
Whilst we were having our conversation, I got an emergency alert on my phone, urgening my find shelter and stay away from outside walls and windows. Many people around me also seem to get it, but they just went on with what they were doing, so I did the same.. Anyway, later I gathered from the news that Russia drones had entered Romanian airspace about 20 miles from Sulina. A pertinent reminder what was happening just across the boarder.
On the way to Sulina and back we saw, what seemed hundreds of man, and possibly some women, at the shore or in boats, fishing. Which means mainly just quietly sitting and watching two, three or four rodes. Watching them, for the life of me I couldn't get into the mindset that would compel me to do something like that. Then I remembered, they would probably say the same about me. Well, each to his own.
The apartment I am in here in Tulcea is on the 4th floor and when I mentioned to my host, Gabi, that I needed a safe place to keep my bike, she came back 5 minutes later with a solution: the shopkeeper just around the corner had a garage and I could keep it there. The woman didn't speak a word of English but I got it safely store away. The apartment was a bit more expensive than others, but the service, like bottled water, coffee for the coffee machine, sharp kitchen knifes, do r entry system and arranging to keep my bike safe, definitely made it worth it.
I have now booked my accommodation from here to Bucharest, and unfortunately it works out at 80/80/50/60 miles. It couldn't be helped because there was just nowhere to stay. Anyway, all manageable, and I think I might get some tailwind the next couple of days.
Monday
Date: 15. September 2025
From Tulcea to Navodari, Romania
Today was the first of the two 80-mile days, which passed off fairly uneventful. It mostly followed the coast, and although there were a few climbs, a bit of tailwind came in handy.
As I passed through Sarichioi, I noticed a clicking sound coming from the chain and started to worry. I stopped in the centre of town, just as all the children were making their way to school and loads of parents hanging around and talking. Me, in the midst of it, checking out my problem. I could see that it was the chain link that had worn out and needed replacing. No problem, just get one of the spares and fit it. One thing that is an absolute essential, is to have a separate pair of gloves for bike repairs, to keep your hands from getting oily. That definitely paid off today.
Tomorrow, another 80 miles and then it's an easy two-day ride all the way to Bucharest. Also, as far as I can see, it's tailwind again tomorrow. Lucky me.
Tuesday
Date: 16. September 2025
From Navodari to Lipnita, Romania
It was an early start today and initially, the roads were rather quiet. However, once I got through Constanta and heading West on DN3, traffic started to pick up. The DN3 is a dual carriageway with rather a lot of traffic. At one point a dog was chasing me, but what I have learned is that the priority is to stay in your lane. Wobbling around wouldn't do anybody any good.
As I tried to keep as close to the kerb as possible, without ending up in the ditch, I was thinking of Cameron Cooper from Ochil Tower. A good number of years ago, he once cycled back from Perth on the A9 and apparently caused a bit of a traffic jam. I suppose one difference is that nobody expects cyclists on the A9 whereas on DN3 drivers seem to be used to it, and easily and safely navigated around me without getting stressed out. I was rather impressed.
Since coming to Romania, I don't think I have seen as many monasteries as I have seen today. There was one about every 5 miles. Some were closed to the road, others, just a sign down an unpaved track. There is even one, Mănăstirea Lipnița, right here in the village where I am staying. They all seem to be well maintained, often contrasting with the towns and villages nearby. It would be interesting to find out if it's just the look or if they are also spiritually and socially thriving.
Tomorrow, with only 50 miles to cover, I will probably make it a 9 am start, catching the ferry across the Danube and staying in the same beach hut I used previously.
Actually not. I just checked, and there is rain coming in the afternoon, so I will try and get the cycling done in the morning.
Wednesday
Date: 17. September 2025
From Lipnita to Dorobantu, Romania
Yesterday, when I passed through Ion Corvin, I had a bit of an uneasy feeling, and then this morning it dawned on me: it was because I had been through that town before on my way to Tulcea. In fact, all of today I was retracing my steps from earlier in the trip.
For the last 2,300 miles the only permanent part has been myself, the clothes on my back, my panniers and my bike. Everything else, every town, road, bed and people were new. With it comes the effort and also excitement that goes with it, but leaving not much room for anything else.
With the trip now almost finished, I think I am looking forward to seeing the same people, eating at the same table, sleeping in the same bed and walking down the same street every day.
At Ostrov, when I was waiting for the people and cars to come off the ferry, I could see this family car with a trailer and a big people carrier on the back. I think in on of photos you can see it. It's the red one. Once the ramp was clear of cars and people, he revved the engine and dropped the clutch, and the whole thing suddenly looked like something out of Fast & Furious. The ramp is pretty steep and slippery and he bumped off the ferry, burning rubber and fishtailing, and I didn't think he would make it. Anyway, he did, and what was surprising, looking at people's faces: they all seem to think it was normal. I was definitely the only one who looked amazed.
Cycling today, but also on previously, I would occasionally hear this mechanical sound and for a moment I was always worried that something was wrong with the bike. Then it clicked, it was a bird and not my bike, but it sounded very convincing. However, I haven't been able to work out which bird it is.
Thursday
Date: 18. September 2025
From Dorobantu to Bucharest, Romania
Today, my last day, was the first cold morning of the trip. There was a mist laying across everything and out came my leggings, cycling shoes and three layers of clothes. Although my feet got a bit cold, it was great going out in this weather, and it certainly improved my average miles per hour.
Well, I have arrived in Bucharest. When I got there, I couldn't resist making my way all the way up Bulevardul Unirii, right up to the Parliament Building, and only then went to find my apartment.
Anyway, that's the end of my trip and also my blog. I will still pull together a few though, once I had a chance to reflect on the last seven weeks that I have been on the road.
I suppose above all, I am grateful that I got here safely. This is something I don't and didn't take for granted. There are some many things that could seriously go wrong, and if you start thinking about it, you probably would stay at home.
In the evening I went for a walk in the park across the road, and the impact of rural poverty hit me: everyone here is about a head taller and the park is teeming with children. The playground is packed, contrasting with the picture of the one I took in Luica.
Also, you can see graffiti on the walls, something you never see in rural places.